To Norm, I have one of your galvanized hitches on my Jayco camper van and have now done around 22 thousand km on our around Aussie trip. It’s been a breeze using it. I had a bloke in Kununnura who was leaving for the Gibb River the next day and wanted one immediately offer me $500 and his old hitch for me to swap with him he was so impressed. Anyway I gave him your info I’m sure you will hear from him. Do I get commission? :)
OzHitch Conversion Kit
Monday August 12th 2013
Tired of battling with your hitch? Why not make it easier? Convert the hitch with a conversion kit to suit AT35, Trigg and Treg? … Including over-rides?
Do a Conversion to OzHitch with a quick change over of the “Uni Joint Bolt” and save your time and your self from a lot of frustration. All you need to do is bolt on the Receiver Cradle and then you will be ready to connect up the conversion kit with the supplied Connecting Pin.
The distance between the two forks on this OzHitch coupling kit is 75-76mm (Internal Measurements)
Please be aware that the replacement bolt (supplied with kit) to fit the OzHitch Conversion Kit is 20mm in diameter and a little bigger than some other hitch types (usually 19mm) and you may be required to drill out the fork on your hitch to suit the thicker bolt.
OzHitch Conversion Kit for AT35, Treg, and Trigg.
Will suit Treg copies fine, however the fork width is wider (around 85mm) and will require you to get some spacers, not supplied in kit.
What Is Included:
1 x Car side receiver bracket: 1 x Main car side connecting bolt, nut and washer: 1 x Connecting pin and lynch clip: 1 x universal joint with bushes: 1 x 20mm Bolt to suit fork connection:
How to do it:
Grind of the existing welds to a flat surface on top and bottom of the fork
On the Treg the centre of the fork is usually the centre of the pin holding the poly block or universal joint in place. So measure to the centre usually 25mm in from the side and then also in from the front. This should be the centre of the pin.
Centre pop this point and then drill a pilot hole around 8mm deep.
Then swap to the 20mm drill bit and drill down until the edge of the 20mm drill has cut into the pin position around 1mm. This should be enough to break through the weld penetration from the pin to the fork.
Do the same steps on the other side.
The pin should now be free to hit out with a punch and hammer.
If you find the pin won’t come out drill a little deeper to see if you can crack the weld.
If you hit the pin hard at this stage you will normally see a crack around the pit to fork weld appear.
If you are not spot on with your drilling point then the crack caused by hitting it hard would usually then give a close indication of how far off you were on the drill point.
Once the pin is out continue to drill out the rest of the fork. Best to drill through both from one side this assures that the hole you are drilling is straight
Assemble the new OzHitch parts into the old hitch.